Well where the hell have YOU been? Thats what I have been asking myself for a while now. That's what everyone has been asking me, as a matter of fact. After a short-but-bitter stint with Provino, I jumped back into the restaurant world with Restaurant Mirepoix. I essentially ran the entire FOH while focusing on intense wine-pairings and exceptional service and guess what . . . Michelin Star!!!

Good fun. An offer I couldn't refuse popped up in Mendocino County, so I joined a huge project up in Ukiah where I assembled a very comprehensive (265 selection) wine list. This was an enormous opportunity to get to know the wine world of Mendo, plus I am the first nutcase to put a Gaja on the winelist of a Mendocino County restaurant. Huzzah! So, now I am back putting some pieces together and getting to know my wife and children again.

The 80-hours per week were just brutal, I can tell you. Brutal.

So: Whatch been drinkin'??

Well, I spent a magnificent weekend celebrating my birthday (if you want to hear me growl and watch me cry at the same time, just ask me why we didn't go to Hawaii) in January. It began with a fabulous brunch at Bistro Ralph with friends over Bloody Marys and Champagne, followed by a magnificent tasting of the 2009's at MacPhail (www.macphailwine.com).

James MacPhail crafts magnificent Pinto Noir from The Sonoma Coast and Anderson Valley appellations. His labels read like a Pinot-geeks wet dream: Vintage, Vineyard sources, Clonal varieties, what the vineyard manager ate for breakfast the morning prior to harvest . . .

But the pudding is proven in bottle. I have always gravitated toward the Anderson Valley Pinots, but in our tastings with James I have to admit that I was just awe struck by the complexity and unctuous fruit structure of his wines. The bold bright cherry cola and earth, with worn leather and jasmine . . .

I tasted through the 2009's starting with the inaugural vintage for MacPhail Chardonnay, Gap's Crown Vineyard, Sonoma Coast 2009. This is the first Chardonnay bottled under the MacPhail label and it comes out of the gate with rich, ripe orchard apple, creme bruleé and meyer lemon. I am reminded of the Sonoma Coast Chardonnays by Marcassin, with it's honey-like glycerin quality on the palate and clean, wet stone-mineral finish. I am just blown away. Actually, I am right now contemplating the purchase of a six-pack of this gorgeous Chard. David Ramey, watch out!

We left MacPhail with a library-released bottle of Toulouse Vineyard Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley 2002 and made our way down toward San Francisco. An unsettled bit of our prior brunch prompted a stop in Mill Valley at the Buckeye Roadhouse for a Fernet, which of course was followed by some beautiful Oysters Bingo and a martini. If that doesn't settle your stomach, nothing will. Onward!

We made our way across the fog-enshrouded Golden Gate Bridge, grabbed a random parking space, forgetting to notice where we left the car, and made a bee-line for the DeYoung Museum of Art in Golden Gate Park, where we had VIP access to a touring collection of Gaugin, Monet, Lautrec, Van Gough and others from the famed Musée d'Orsay in Paris. I felt both slightly guilty and enormously entitled as we by-passed the throngs of people who were waiting patiently to enter the exhibit - after all, it is MY birthday! The works were exquisite! Magnificent! Bravo!! Two observations: Van Gough's "Starry Night" is not the painting you think it is. We were excited to see it, but slightly disappointed when we arrived at the piece I now know as "Starry Night over the Rhone" (pictured left at the top of this rant). The one that I was looking for was the swirly one that everyone recognizes (pictured on the top-right).

Second observation: Toulousse Lautrec was a dirty little dwarf who was barely sober long enough to sketch images of various Paris prostitutes (presumably the ones he patronized) pulling down their knickers. There. I said it. More power to the little guy.

We miraculously found our car and drove down toward the Mission, where we met up with Barb's brother Sal and had a few cocktails while sketching together a plan. Off to Sushi A-Go-Go for some Oysters with Ponzu Mignonette and a Kamikaze Roll, washed down with few Cucumber Gimlets (yum!) and then off to Foreign Cinema for a delightful dinner of Baked Redwood Hill Goat Cheese in Escarole with Lavender and Castelvetrano Olives under the canopy while "Harold and Maude" played overhead against the brick wall. The Smokey Masala Pork Chop faired well as a match with the Goldeneye Pinot Noir, Gowan Creek Vineyard, Anderson Valley 2007. What a fabulous evening and a great way to celebrate a birthday - the hangover was worth it. It was abated to some degree by a slightly huge burger and a bloody mary at Perry's on Union St. Highly recommended after a night like this. I promise to keep it up - Cheers!!