Well where the hell have YOU been? Thats what I have been asking myself for a while now. That's what everyone has been asking me, as a matter of fact. After a short-but-bitter stint with Provino, I jumped back into the restaurant world with Restaurant Mirepoix. I essentially ran the entire FOH while focusing on intense wine-pairings and exceptional service and guess what . . . Michelin Star!!!

Good fun. An offer I couldn't refuse popped up in Mendocino County, so I joined a huge project up in Ukiah where I assembled a very comprehensive (265 selection) wine list. This was an enormous opportunity to get to know the wine world of Mendo, plus I am the first nutcase to put a Gaja on the winelist of a Mendocino County restaurant. Huzzah! So, now I am back putting some pieces together and getting to know my wife and children again.

The 80-hours per week were just brutal, I can tell you. Brutal.

So: Whatch been drinkin'??

Well, I spent a magnificent weekend celebrating my birthday (if you want to hear me growl and watch me cry at the same time, just ask me why we didn't go to Hawaii) in January. It began with a fabulous brunch at Bistro Ralph with friends over Bloody Marys and Champagne, followed by a magnificent tasting of the 2009's at MacPhail (www.macphailwine.com).

James MacPhail crafts magnificent Pinto Noir from The Sonoma Coast and Anderson Valley appellations. His labels read like a Pinot-geeks wet dream: Vintage, Vineyard sources, Clonal varieties, what the vineyard manager ate for breakfast the morning prior to harvest . . .

But the pudding is proven in bottle. I have always gravitated toward the Anderson Valley Pinots, but in our tastings with James I have to admit that I was just awe struck by the complexity and unctuous fruit structure of his wines. The bold bright cherry cola and earth, with worn leather and jasmine . . .

I tasted through the 2009's starting with the inaugural vintage for MacPhail Chardonnay, Gap's Crown Vineyard, Sonoma Coast 2009. This is the first Chardonnay bottled under the MacPhail label and it comes out of the gate with rich, ripe orchard apple, creme bruleé and meyer lemon. I am reminded of the Sonoma Coast Chardonnays by Marcassin, with it's honey-like glycerin quality on the palate and clean, wet stone-mineral finish. I am just blown away. Actually, I am right now contemplating the purchase of a six-pack of this gorgeous Chard. David Ramey, watch out!

We left MacPhail with a library-released bottle of Toulouse Vineyard Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley 2002 and made our way down toward San Francisco. An unsettled bit of our prior brunch prompted a stop in Mill Valley at the Buckeye Roadhouse for a Fernet, which of course was followed by some beautiful Oysters Bingo and a martini. If that doesn't settle your stomach, nothing will. Onward!

We made our way across the fog-enshrouded Golden Gate Bridge, grabbed a random parking space, forgetting to notice where we left the car, and made a bee-line for the DeYoung Museum of Art in Golden Gate Park, where we had VIP access to a touring collection of Gaugin, Monet, Lautrec, Van Gough and others from the famed Musée d'Orsay in Paris. I felt both slightly guilty and enormously entitled as we by-passed the throngs of people who were waiting patiently to enter the exhibit - after all, it is MY birthday! The works were exquisite! Magnificent! Bravo!! Two observations: Van Gough's "Starry Night" is not the painting you think it is. We were excited to see it, but slightly disappointed when we arrived at the piece I now know as "Starry Night over the Rhone" (pictured left at the top of this rant). The one that I was looking for was the swirly one that everyone recognizes (pictured on the top-right).

Second observation: Toulousse Lautrec was a dirty little dwarf who was barely sober long enough to sketch images of various Paris prostitutes (presumably the ones he patronized) pulling down their knickers. There. I said it. More power to the little guy.

We miraculously found our car and drove down toward the Mission, where we met up with Barb's brother Sal and had a few cocktails while sketching together a plan. Off to Sushi A-Go-Go for some Oysters with Ponzu Mignonette and a Kamikaze Roll, washed down with few Cucumber Gimlets (yum!) and then off to Foreign Cinema for a delightful dinner of Baked Redwood Hill Goat Cheese in Escarole with Lavender and Castelvetrano Olives under the canopy while "Harold and Maude" played overhead against the brick wall. The Smokey Masala Pork Chop faired well as a match with the Goldeneye Pinot Noir, Gowan Creek Vineyard, Anderson Valley 2007. What a fabulous evening and a great way to celebrate a birthday - the hangover was worth it. It was abated to some degree by a slightly huge burger and a bloody mary at Perry's on Union St. Highly recommended after a night like this. I promise to keep it up - Cheers!!

Cruising at the Savoy

Six of us drove down to Sausalito in the mid-morning in a car fully stocked with wine and food, chatting and laughing non-stop until we reached the lower Marin hamlet to unload passengers and supplies at the marina. I parked behind the Spinnaker Restaurant and strolled over to the dock where guests and crew alike were milling about the craft, preparing for a day on the water. We met up with Ralph Tingle of Bistro Ralph, some of the Bistro waitstaff, a pair of chefs from his kitchen brigade and Simi Winemaker Susan Leuker down in Sausalito to cruise with Richard Savoy on his luxury motor yacht. Richard does this annual cruise where he hires a captain to pilot his massive pleasure craft around the bay while we eat, drink and respond with merriment and joy. This was my second time aboard the ship. Last years cruise was when I met Rich Savoy for the first time.

Richard Savoy, a former San Francisco bookseller, owns two "Grand Cru" vineyards in Anderson Valley — the eponymous Savoy Vineyard on the valley floor, one mile north of Philo, and his home vineyard, 1600 feet up on the ridge above Boonville. There he planted Savoy Vineyard in 1991 and 1992 to Chardonnay and Pinot noir. Wineries such as Radio-Coteau, Breggo Cellars, Litterai, Roessler, Benovia and Drew (to name a few) all purchase top-quality Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Rich Savoy. The wines produced from Savoy fruit all seem to be complex, long lived, weighty and collectible. It is typical to find a Savoy Pinot or Chardonnay on the wine lists of top-end restaurants. As I mentioned a few weeks ago, The 2007 Benovia Savoy Pinot Noir I tasted at Pinot Days 2009 was a show stopper. This is the good stuff, and Richard puts all of his energy into growing top quality grapes as a "retirement" project. When we are not discussing grape growing, great wine and excellent food, Richard and I chat at great length about politics, sustainable food & farming practices and the Boston Red Sox - all with equal magnanimity and agreement. This is a really great guy to hang out with.

Once we stowed our gear and folks began pouring wines, we were under way . . . well, sort of. After we released the craft from it's moorings I noticed Rich was having a discussion with the captain about something that seemed important. The only phrase I could make out over the din of the engine and the party on deck was "loss of steering control . . ." - which raised a few red flags in my mind. Rich came out to the stern and popped open a hatch - he removed some items that were being stowed to reveal a selection of tubular lines that run the steering system. I hoisted him inside the narrow compartment so he could get a closer look at the situation. He fiddled a bit with the apparatus and then lowered himself out of the nook. I was more curious than concerned, although we had already released the craft from it's moorings and were floating toward a grouping of sailboats tied up to a dock next to us. The captain assured Richard that he could handle it and we began to motor out of the marina and into the bay. After replacing the items that came out of the hatch I felt it was my duty and obligation to relate the steering issue and it's resolution to my fellow passengers.

"So do you want the good news or the bad news first?" - which always garners a chuckle-seasoned groan.

"Well, the good news is that the steering controls are inoperative, but the captain feels confident that he can maneuver the boat utilizing the engine controls."

"The bad news is that the steering controls are inoperative, so the captain needs to maneuver the boat utilizing the engine controls."

Once under way, we began to munch on home-made tortilla chips and two salsas (one of which comes into play a bit later on) prepared by Jason, a new addition to the kitchen staff at Bistro Ralph. The Tomato-based chili and lime salsa was delightfully spicy and piquant with plenty of cilantro. The second one, a pineapple and Mango salsa, contained a lively combination of sweet and savory notes along with assertive Serrano chili that married well to the 2008 Ceago Sauvignon Blanc 2008 from Mendocino County. This is the winery project that Jim Fetzer truly has his heart in, having sold off Fetzer Vineyards and Bonterra long ago. The 2007 Lynmar Vineyards Pinot Noir Rose worked nicely as well, with delightful strawberry aromas with pear & tart cranberry on the palate.

You could not ask for better weather to cruise around San Francisco Bay - the sun was shining high, the sky a clear azure-blue, a crisp yet gentle breeze refreshed us as we trolled out of the marina toward the low fog that was careening under the Golden Gate Bridge. Sea Lions and Porpoises played in our wake and waved to us with interest before disappearing below the surface.

An impromptu buffet of sourdough ficelle with tomatoes, mozzarella, basil and balsamic vinaigrette, some bruschettas with white bean spread, arugula and lemon oil, and some roasted corn on the cob with chipotle butter were set out on the console in the rear lounge. We enjoyed some 2006 Shafer Merlot Napa Valley while I favored the crispy/tangy bruschetta over anything else served.

As we sat and chatted and indulged, Richard leaned over and began telling me about his friend who has a boat in the same marina who enjoys fishing quite a bit. He apparently provided Richard with a gorgeous loin of Albacore tuna that was just caught outside the Golden Gate that morning. He asked me if I wouldn't mind preparing it for everyone to enjoy. I agreed while I masked my apprehension - I felt a bit tipsy and I was unsure of what kind of provisions Rich had aboard.

I made my way to the galley and Rich showed me the layout. He handed over a butane lighter to ignite the four-burner stove top and he pulled out a drawer to reveal some key ingredients: wasabi, olive oil, sea salt and a pepper mill. I began heating up a saute pan over the flames and deftly trimmed and shaped the fresh loin. I placed it in the freezer for a short period to chill it down while I prepared garnishes and flavor components. Luckily there was a contingent aboard the craft who were drinking lots of margaritas, so I had plenty of limes and other fixin's available. I combined wasabi, tamari, lime juice, black pepper, lime zest, Cointreau and (gasp!) a modicum of Cuervo Margarita Mix to create quite a nice "Ponzu" style sauce. Richard picked up some fresh fava beans and he prepped the beans a few days before while watching the ball game, so there was a nice baggy of perfectly cleaned and blanched favas in his freezer which I defrosted and combined with some fresh baby arugula and a lemon vinaigrette. I pulled the tuna loin from the freezer, seasoned it up with salt and pepper and seared it in hot olive oil. Once achieving a nice golden-brown crust on all sides I removed the fish from the pan and allowed it to rest on the cutting board. I created a bed of dressed favas and arugula on a square serving dish, thinly sliced the seared tuna to reveal a chilled and perfectly rare center and shingled it out over the greens. The "Ponzu" was spooned over the fish and I grabbed the Pineapple/Mango salsa and dressed the fish with it. A truly beautiful work of art! and tangible, as it only lasted on that plate for 15 minutes - no joke! It was delightful with the 2005 Radio-Coteau Savoy Chardonnay and the 2007 Benovia Savoy Pinot Noir that Rich pulled out of his hat. We dropped Anchor on the east coast of Angel Island where 17 people made quick work of the seared tuna . . . and Richard was thrilled with the result. I guess we were on the same page regarding the preparation. A few moments of camaraderie and then cleanup began while we motored our way through Raccoon Straits and back to the marina. I overheard people making plans for sushi and cocktails when we arrive back on land, so I tied the stern lines to the cleat and we grabbed our gear.

Across from the Marina on Bridgeway (the main road through town) is the Hotel Casa Madrona with it's Trattoria called Poggio, a lively spot for some delightful food and drinks on a Sunday afternoon. We ordered martinis and nibbled on assorted salumi and cheeses, the house favorite meatballs in a flavorful tomato fondutta and crisp flatbreads and pizzas. What a delightful way to end the weekend!

We packed the car up with our tired and inebriated charges and their gear, and made the drive back up to Sonoma County to home. Tonight I join Richard at Bistro Ralph for a glass of wine. This wine country living is really exhausting, I'll tell you.

To drink or not to drink: My last Bollinger La Grande Année Rosé 1995

So . . . the story goes like this. You pick up a six bottle case of killer vintage Brut Rosé Champagne from a highly respected house with the hopes of holding on to it until the wine is very mature and, hopefully, valuable due to it's rarity. You get scolded by your significant other for making such a lofty and expensive purchase and by the time the wine is settled in on your wine racks in the dark and chilly cellar and the cardboard box has been recycled, you hopefully have forgotten about the wine so you can allow it to languish for some years to come. I mean, seriously - who doesn't buy a nice bottle, six-pack or case of wine fully knowing that they will be in serious trouble with the wife? But it's all worth it, right? You'll open up that bottle of wine you've been holding in the cellar for 10-12 years and when she says "Wow" and asks "Where did you get this gorgeous wine?" you will have to remind her of the tongue lashing she dealt you when you tried to sneak the case down to the cellar. This is my reality.

Now here is the other reality: The wine in question is a Champagne - synonymous with celebrations and good times - so what if there is a suitable reason to celebrate and the only bubbly on hand is this remarkable, incredibly spendy and delicious wine you had been hoping to save for 20 years?

Thanks for playing along thus far. We'll get somewhere . . . I promise.

Here is my issue. I bought a six-pack of the Bollinger La Grande Année Rosé 1995 back in 2003. I have been holding onto some of it for six years now. Somehow we managed to consume five bottles over the past six years at celebratory dinners and so forth. On each occasion when I tasted the wine I enjoyed it immensely, yet felt the wine needed more cellar-time in order to develop the complexities that I personally enjoy in a Champagne like Bollinger. Now there is one bottle left and the special occasion du jour is my 10th Wedding Anniversary. The 1995 Bollinger is the only bottle of bubbly we own suitable enough to take to the Farmhouse Restaurant tonight, yet I'd rather save it for our 25th Anniversary. This is a full bodied, rich, opulent wine with strawberry and toasted brioche complexities. A barrel-aged cuvee of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the 1995 vintage, seasoned with a post-fermentation dosage of honey and Grand Champagne Cognac. In 1995 there was no malolactic fermentation, a considerably light crop was harvested and there was the presence of botrytis in the vineyards which called for thinning and berry selection - all contributing to the conditions where the wine will develop deep complexities and enjoy the structure of bracing acidity - all factors capable of allowing this wine to age for a much longer time than other vintages.

In November of 2002 the Wine Spectator said ". . . firm, powerful structure that needs time to integrate all the elements." Needs time.

What should I do? Should I go out and buy a bottle of something different, just so I can save the Bollinger? Should I just drink it and hope it shows the complexities that I desire in a classic Champagne? Should I bring a red to the restaurant and buy a Champagne from their list?

These wine-based complications are the Devil's toe jam.

The other side of the coin is this: Wine was made to be consumed, not saved for posterity. It was lovingly stored in temperature controlled conditions for it's entire journey from the House of Bollinger in Aÿ, Champagne, France to my Eurocave. This is not some dusty bottle of (shudder to think) White Star received as a gift and stored in the convective hot zone above the 'fridge. We are talking about something rare and special. Though I may want to wait for the wine, the wine does not wait for me, so why should I delay any further? To paraphrase the Doritos folks, "Drink it! We'll make more!!". Sure it will taste better if aged for a few years, but it is a 1995 - that's a 14 year-old vintage. Maybe this is the year.

Look at this!! I am quantifying the consumption of a bottle of wine that I was moments ago dreading the thought of even the possibility of allowing to see the light of day. Geez! This is a therapeutic rant, if I say so myself!

The resolve: Drinking this beautiful Champagne on a special night like my 10th Anniversary will forever be etched in my memory. Delightful food at one of Sonoma's best restaurants, the company of my lovely wife and our enjoyment and celebration together as we sip crisp, lovely, ethereal Bollinger Champagne.

And now there will be room in the cellar to buy something else.

"Champagne for my real friends and real pain for my sham friends." - Tom Waits

I had the priviledge of tasting some Champagne André Jacquart Brut Experience Le Mesnil Premier Cru this week and I am in deep trouble. My wallet will be emptied as I take in a six-pack to my cellar, and I will giggle like an insane madman as I fondle each bottle while they find a home in the crowded Eurocave. This is the kind of stuff that real dreams are made of: a Champagne of excellent quality, hand crafted by a small-lot family producer that uses only their estate Chardonnay grapes from the esteemed Le Mesnil vineyards. For under $70??!! This one pushes most of the big, expensive and ubiquitous Champagnes on the market down several notches and behind a structural column into the "obstructed view" seats.

The Wine Spectator said:

92 Points - “Refined, with floral, spice and a touch of coconut highlighting citrus and vanilla flavors. The supple texture is backed by vibrant acidity as this cruises to a long finish. On the dry side and vinous. Drink now through 2012. 500 cases made.” –BS

I disagree. I say:

97 Points - Ultra-refined with crisp, elegant rose petal and hibiscus, toasted coriander and nutella on brioche toast. Cake batter, vanilla and lemon/citrus dominate the palate seemingly forever. Bone dry and focused fruit complexities. Drink now - 2018. 100 cases imported.

Okay, okay. I do agree, a bit . . . but perhaps with the added enthusiasm of a higher score and more gobbledy-gook. I really enjoyed writing the word "gobbledy-gook". Thanks for the opportunity!

Here's the basic schpeal:

Andre Jacquart is what we call a "grower" with a small champagne house situated in the Grand Cru village of Mesnil: the prime spot for the most sought after Chardonnay grapes within the venerable Champagne region. The wine is estate grown and bottled in miniscule production numbers by the grower/winemaker with 100% Chardonnay from their Premier Cru Rated Vineyard. 36 month cellar aging Barrel Fermented and Barrel Aged for 8 months which contributes depth and elegance.

Wants some? Well . . . you know what to do! Let me know!!!

Just one more . . .

Okay, okay. I said my four top Pinots would be all I'd rap about regarding the 2009 Pinot Days, but I was rolling through my notes and I just cannot believe that I missed this one. Bad Blogger! Bad! No!(imagine me getting whacked on the snout with a rolled up newspaper)

At the end of the afternoon, when many of the participants had already poured out their last drop, I noticed a familiar producer was still pouring tastes of wine. It was Belle Glos, crafted by Joseph Wagner of the Caymus clan. Their Belle Glos 2007 Pinot Noir "Clark & Telephone Vineyard" Santa Maria Valley was just what the doctor ordered: The perfect balance between generous fruit power and delicate earth complexities. Quite a remarkable effort with up-front notes of wild strawberries, sweet ripe plums, cherries, currants, loamy soil, shitake, umami and sweet herbs found in both the aromas and full-bodied palate with refined tannins, firm acidity and a generous and long finish. I could only say "Oh, man!!" for five minutes after tasting this rockstar. Yes, Virginia, there is a Santa Claus. And if you are a good girl you may find a few bottles of this beauty under your tree. Grab some now if you can, as the winery is going to begin restricting it due to high scores and so forth. Drop me a line if you need any (and I know you do!!)!!!

Pinot Days 2009: The Aftermath

As a veteran of ZAP for many years, I felt more than prepared to participate in this years Pinot Days tasting at Fort Mason in San Francisco. Luckily, the event lacked the circus-like feel and the mind-numbing alcohol levels that Zinfandel generally provides the throngs, converting them into a frenzied, purple-mawed outcast team of Day-of-the-Dead extras from central casting.
We arrived two-hours ahead of the doors opening and got a fabulous parking space right near the door. The volunteer staff were very nice and as we lined up in front of the Festival Pavillion we found comraderie with staff and participants alike. A friendly calm before the ensuing storm of swirling, sniffing, swishing and spitting - punctuated by a little pushing and shoving. Next year they are going to have to utilize the second pavillion - 4000 people all clammoring for the same top-rated wine can lead to a few smashed toes and some modest dry cleaning bills - nevertheless the doors flung open and we were whisked inside to grab our glasses and spit cups and we were off and running. Well . . . strolling.
We decided to cherry-pick the room for outstanding wines from outstanding producers, so our first stop was at Cima Collina where we were treated to excellent expressions of Pinot Noir from the Santa Lucia Highlands within the venerable Central Coast appellation. Their Tondre Grapefield 2007 Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands showed spicy aromatic cherry, sweet oak and roses on our noses (ha!) with tart, yet balanced cherry and raspberry flavors. My favorite was the Hilltop Ranch 2006 Pinot Noir Estate Santa Lucia Highlands - a powerful, rich and dark wine with intense blueberry, plum, leather, earth with smoke and a cadre of spices. It certainly needed some time to breathe in the glass, but the wait was well worth it. http://www.cimacollina.com/
The next stand-out was from Waits-Mast. Brian Mast and Jennifer Waits have put their passion for Pinot into a remarkable project being produced at Crushpad in San Francisco. The poetically prolific duo source fruit from some fantastic spots along the Central and North Coast of California. First we tasted their Hein Vineyard 2006 Pinot Noir Anderson Valley which showed those classic strawberry aromas and cherry fruit complexities on the palate with a nice dose of the balanced earth, spice and leather we all know and love from the Anderson Valley. Beautiful, ripe and delicious. Next we tasted the La Encantada 2007 Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills. Owned and farmed as Certified Organic (CCOF) by Richard Sanford (Remember Sanford Pinot Noir? Remember the guy who founded the Santa Rita Hills AVA??!) the delicious fruit from La Encantada is highly regarded and saught after by wineries like Roessler, Alma Rosa, and Robelon. This wine is a bit more dark and brooding. It shows more smoke and spice on the nose, some good tannins and a deep ruby color, leaning towards crimson. The palate unfolds with lush sweet cherry and blackberries, spice, floral notes and a hint of cola. This one definately had my attention. http://waitsmast.com/tierra/
Bill Hunter's Chasseur wines had definately made a splash in the past with above-90 ratings from Robert Parker and the Wine Spectator. So why should this day be different from any other day? Of the four Pinot Noirs Bill was pouring on Sunday, the one that really stopped my in my tracks was the Umino 2007 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley. The nose brought forth bright, perfectly focused red cherry fruit with hints of dried flowers and slightly toffeed or creamy, toasty elements resulting from perfectly toasted oak integration. Showing as a full-bodied, perfectly balanced wine, on word springs forth: refined. Its dense, deep and exuberant flavors blend in subtle notes of dark, hidden treasures which will reveal their sophisticated complexities with a few years of cellar time. Can you tell that I liked this one? We also tasted the 2006 Umino which showed what just one year can reveal. http://www.chasseurwines.com/
The Best is always saved for last, although I decided to distill my tasting notes down from 25 wines I enjoyed to this scant 4 listings, however this is what the reader really wants: Give me your top four, man!
Benovia Winery has really captured my attention with their Savoy Vineyard 2007 Pinot Noir Anderson Valley. This vineyard typically reveals a harmonic balance between rich, oppulent, ripe fruit and earthy mushroom/umami characteristics. Benovia has crafted a deeply colored masterpiece with briary blackberry laced with a mineral and toasted coriander seed aromatic nose. A hint of dried orange rind gives way to a lush palate full of crushed black cherries and deep, dark, ripe plums. I can't wait to see what this thing can do over a moderate period of cellar time. Winemaker Mike Sullivan is a master in his own right, and Robert Parker enjoys his wines as well, reflecting: “I’m a big fan of winemaker Mike Sullivan as he seems to have the brilliant ability to convert Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Zinfandel into wines of considerable character and individuality.”
So, that about wraps up the concentrated nitty-gritty on the 2009 Pinot Days tasting. Keep your glasses buffed, your corkscrews handy and your browser tuned. http://www.benoviawinery.com/